Avanza: DIY Oil Change

Its 110k km..

Tools:
1. Oil filter wrench.
2. size 14 wrench.
3. waste oil container.
4. Old news paper.
5. Tissue or toilet roll.

Parts:
1. Oil filter.
2. Engine oil.



~ No need to jack up the car.
~ Size 14 wrench need to be reasonably long to make the open of drain bolt easier. Quite tight.
~ Warm up engine or take a short breakfast drive, let the engine cool down a little so the oil release is not boiling hot.
~ Lay the old news paper on the floor so any spillage will not dirty the floor.
~ Loosen the size 14 drain bolt.
~ Place the waste oil container below the drain bolt.
~ Open drain bolt. I use hand to open. The oil when come in contact with hand, its hot. But not boiling la.
~ Leave it drain until u are satisfied. I left it for about an hour.. :p
~ Now u can loosen (not open) oil filter while waiting for the oil to drip. Just loosen it will do. Open it now will spill oil to the floor. Wait!
~ Clean up the drain bolt and the outlet on the oil sump. Screw the bolt back in. No need very tight, just a slight torque using the size 14 wrench because you may damage the little bolt.
~ Drag the waste container until its directly under the oil filter.
~ Now open the oil filter with the oil filter wrench.
~ The oil filter is directly in the exhaust manifold, so its a little cramp in there. My little plastic oil filter opener get a little handful because get caught by the exhaust manifold. DON'T DO THIS WHEN ENGINE IS VERY HOT BECAUSE EXHAUST MANIFOLD CAN BURN YOUR HAND.
~ Once open the open filter, use toilet paper or tissue to clean the contact area and this is what it looks like:



~ Apply some fresh engine oil over the filter oil seal to wet it so it seats better.
~ Can actually hand tight the oil filter.. ;D
~ Pour in fresh oil, and measure using the dipstick. DON'T POUR IN THE WHOLE BOTTLE, WE DON'T THAT MUCH.
~ Start the engine, visually inspect for leakage.
~ If no leakage, take it for a short drive, then check again.
~ Stop the engine and check oil level again. Top up until it reached the MAX mark on the dip stick.
~ Check on leakages again the next morning and so forth (subsequent days to come) until you are comfortable.

DONE!

This is the oil filter. I bought it from SC, very cheap only, don't risk getting from outside spare part shop just to save few Ringgit. Very different internal design.

BMW E90 320i DIY engine oil change

A friend came over the weekend and ask me to help her replace her fluid.. She confirmed warranty for her 320i is over, so she wish to service outside.. :D I told her I will try because I have not done it to an E90 before.. here goes..

First of all, I was looking for a place to jack. I realized the E90 does not come with a jack because it’s on Run Flat Tire and does not intend for owner to jack the car for replacing flat. So no jack. I took my Toyota jack and start looking for a spot under the E90 to rest my jack. Voila! Found a “jack stand”.. or rather a plastic mount where its meant to support a workshop hydraulic car lift. To avoid breaking the plastic mount, I found a rubber muffler mount in my store and cut it into shape so can slot into the E90 plastic mount as follows to disperse pressure to avoid the risk of breaking the plastic mounting:








Check out the brick I inserted under the tire.. :D Kiasi.. :p and check out those green carpet tiles.. that's my mat.. :D


A look under the E90… Wow! Amazing sight! Reminds me of the Darth Vader’s Empire Mothership carrier.. :D












Once I am comfortable with my reach to the drain bolt, then only I proceed to replace the oil filter.. I should have released the drain bolt first so allowing more time for the oil to drip while I replace the oil filter. I was worry of unable to open the oil filter, so must try opening the oil filter first because if unable to open, I would call off the project.. :D

I first mark the oil filter cover with a masking tape so I know how much to tighten the cap later. I don’t have a torque wrench and I ‘m suppose to tighten it to 25Nm of torque as written on the cap.. :p


Line the cap with a piece of cloth so the filter wrench won't harm the cap.. :D Open with anti close wise rotation just like unwinding a screw..


See how dirty the thing is.. yuukkk.... If I tell u this filter is only 5k km old, would believe me?


Hold the dirty filter element with one hand and tap the central core with your other hand, the element will slide out.. took me quite awhile to figure this out.. almost broke the core while struggled with it.. :p


The el-cheapo Austrian filter I got for her.. :p






Slot the new filter element into the core.. make sure the side with printed code number is facing out.. don't ask why... just follow.. :D Don't forget to replace the oil seal. 3 of them.


Screw the filter back and make sure the cap return to our "mark", well aligned! That's 25Nm I suppose.. :rolleyes:


Now move on to the drain bolt.. not easy to open for a new car because the bolt was bolted onto the pan before they assemble the engine and coated with a layer of paint, thus very tight. Luckily this an old car.. :wink: It's using size 6mm hex wrench. I got my wrench from a bicycle shop.. :p Normal anti clock wise unwinding... DON'T SCREW UP!!! If u break the nut, don't call me!! :D




Some closeup to show u the screw... if you don't have the hex wrench, it will be difficult because of the thin top. Too thin to fit a wrench (its size 17mm). The black finishing is actually the oil sump paint (in&out), painted over the nut because when they paint the oil sump before assembly, the bolt is already in place..again I must stress, it should be very tight for a new car.. I think :rolleyes:


Check out the dirty oil.. what they called BMW-LL :stupid:


If I were to tell you these are 5k km original BMW-LL fluid, would you believe me.. :p :D


If these are good for another say... 5k km... would u pour it into your Kancil or something..? :p :D











Hope u enjoy reading the above! :wink: