BMW E90 320i DIY Headlight Adjustment

If you don't want a VIOS to tapao u at night on the highway just because you can't see the road ahead due the poor low beam upper range illumination, please make sure you do this.. :D

This is a DIY for E90 headlight beam height adjustment.

Tools required:
1. A cross head screwdriver or 6mm Allen key.
2. Some masking tape.
3. Blade

Step 1: Identify the headlight beam height adjuster screw, it's located behind the headlight assembly, facing up, very easy to find.

Step 2: Cut/tear a small piece of masking tape and mark a line with a pen.

Step 3: Stick the masking tape on the edge of the screw to mark its position, then use a blade to slice the masking tape to free the upper part which can rotate with the screw.

NOTE: Anti clock wise higher beam throw and vise versa. Recommendation is 3 x 360 degree turns anti clock wise. I just did one turn and leave the masking tape there so can adjust if I'm not happy.

I have no problem with my passenger side head light, so I just adjusted my driver side headlight.

The screw. Can use either the 6mm Allen key or the Philip/cross head screw driver. I prefer using Allen key because confirm won't slip and damage the screw, and easy to count the turn.


The masking tape marker. See carefully how the masking tape is sliced in the middle.


This is where the screw is located.


Result? I have not tested yet.. :p

DIY Avanza Throttle Cleaning

Just did my 80k km service and took the opportunity to check my K&N if its still there after the service.. :o

Well, the K&N is still there and I also clean the K&N while checking it. Also I noticed my throttle butterfly plate is pretty dirty.. so here goes...

Took out my STP Carb Cleaner..


Check out the dirt surrounding the throttle plate..


Inside the intake manifold but rotating the throttle where the throttle cable is located.


What I did was just start the engine, and slowly spray a little of the carb cleaner into the throttle a bit at a time so you don't "choke" the engine. Rotate the throttle a little by twisting the throttle cable plate. This will bring up the rev, again slowly spray the carb cleaner.

BMW E90 DIY Opening Air Filter Box

It was a lazy weekend morning to many, but the thought of wondering what kind of air filter the E90 320i is having, simply kept me awake all night and I couldn't wait for the first ray of sunlight so I can rush down to my porch to have an early date with my E90.. :D Is it CONICAL? .. or CYLINDRICAL? .. or just FLAT.. :p

Here goes..

A cool morning engine.. which is half asleep and I am already all cite up to “undress” her.. :p


2 size 10mm screws at the right of the AF box to be first unscrewed..


Remove the Air Flow Sensor lead rubber boot plug..


Lift up the plug and u will see the leads and the socket. Must unplug the socket before we proceed.. tiny wires.. be extra careful not to injure the wires..


Unplug the following AF buffer box.. (I initially thought that’s just an ornamental cover with a roundel.. :p) must unscrew 3 tiny Torx screws which hang the box to the upper plastic cross-member beam..


Loosen the hose clip connected to the throttle body inlet, unplug and lift the AF box… Voila!… its out of the E90 lio.. :D


Flip the box over and you will notice there are few Torx screw fastening the box together.. 5 of them… if not mistaken.. :rolleyes:


I think this is the BMW OEM code for the replacement filter element..


After unscrewing the 5 Torx screws fastening the AF box, just rip the box open like open a Durian.. :p …the 5 Torx screws are design to remain stuck on one side of the box.. so don’t waste time figuring out how to remove them… they won’t.. :D


This is what I’m looking for.. looks like a synthetic element like the HKS element… minus the oil.. :p


This is the neck of the element.. the air flow sensor is just next to it..


This is the other end… can slide the element out…look at my RED arrow..




With the element lifted off, the air flow sensor is instantly revealed.. be careful not to damage this delicate and vital “organ”.. don’t even think about touching it!! :D If I must find a descriptive word for it, the word would be “G-Spot”.. :D


Close up on the G-Spot.. :D


Macro shot.. :D … or rather MICRO.. :rolleyes:


Take a peep inside the element..


Close-up… amazing sight!


Tons of codes on the element..


See…. It’s a CYLINDRICAL shape.. :p




Let’s do some measurement.. in inches.. :D


A little over 5 inches in overall diameter..


Now in Metric..


8 mm inner diameter… that will be the measurement I need to look for a matching open port K&N.. :D


Now the outer diameter in Metric..


A little short of 14mm..


Inner diameter in inches..


A little over 3 inches..


Now the height.. read the measurement yourself.. :D


With the cylindrical element lying down..




Check this out… the outer synthetic wool layer is wrap on like a sarong kaki !!!! :eek:


We can actually change “SOCK” !!! :eek: which keep the actual element clean.. :eek:


That’s all folks!

Took this opportunity to take a photo of the throttle..






Not forgetting.. the alternator..


No oil stain found over this side of the engine.. what a relief!!

Conclusion
Since the element is protected by a layer of synthetic wool.. I reckon it keeps the air flow very clean (double layer mah!) and keep the combustion chamber extremely clean..

By just removing the wool, I believe we will experience instant performance improvement… if straight away put K&N.. Wow! I cannot imagine how much performance gain we will get.. and it’s a definite gain for sure!!

Anyway… I’m not in a hurry to swap the OEM element out.. kind of admire the OEM technology though.. again I stress.. u will never see JDM filter element wearing socks.. :p UDM rocks!! :rock:

Oh well! I will be looking forward to wash my "socks" once every few months.. :D

BMW E90 320i DIY engine oil change

A friend came over the weekend and ask me to help her replace her fluid.. She confirmed warranty for her 320i is over, so she wish to service outside.. :D I told her I will try because I have not done it to an E90 before.. here goes..

First of all, I was looking for a place to jack. I realized the E90 does not come with a jack because it’s on Run Flat Tire and does not intend for owner to jack the car for replacing flat. So no jack. I took my Toyota jack and start looking for a spot under the E90 to rest my jack. Voila! Found a “jack stand”.. or rather a plastic mount where its meant to support a workshop hydraulic car lift. To avoid breaking the plastic mount, I found a rubber muffler mount in my store and cut it into shape so can slot into the E90 plastic mount as follows to disperse pressure to avoid the risk of breaking the plastic mounting:








Check out the brick I inserted under the tire.. :D Kiasi.. :p and check out those green carpet tiles.. that's my mat.. :D


A look under the E90… Wow! Amazing sight! Reminds me of the Darth Vader’s Empire Mothership carrier.. :D












Once I am comfortable with my reach to the drain bolt, then only I proceed to replace the oil filter.. I should have released the drain bolt first so allowing more time for the oil to drip while I replace the oil filter. I was worry of unable to open the oil filter, so must try opening the oil filter first because if unable to open, I would call off the project.. :D

I first mark the oil filter cover with a masking tape so I know how much to tighten the cap later. I don’t have a torque wrench and I ‘m suppose to tighten it to 25Nm of torque as written on the cap.. :p


Line the cap with a piece of cloth so the filter wrench won't harm the cap.. :D Open with anti close wise rotation just like unwinding a screw..


See how dirty the thing is.. yuukkk.... If I tell u this filter is only 5k km old, would believe me?


Hold the dirty filter element with one hand and tap the central core with your other hand, the element will slide out.. took me quite awhile to figure this out.. almost broke the core while struggled with it.. :p


The el-cheapo Austrian filter I got for her.. :p






Slot the new filter element into the core.. make sure the side with printed code number is facing out.. don't ask why... just follow.. :D Don't forget to replace the oil seal. 3 of them.


Screw the filter back and make sure the cap return to our "mark", well aligned! That's 25Nm I suppose.. :rolleyes:


Now move on to the drain bolt.. not easy to open for a new car because the bolt was bolted onto the pan before they assemble the engine and coated with a layer of paint, thus very tight. Luckily this an old car.. :wink: It's using size 6mm hex wrench. I got my wrench from a bicycle shop.. :p Normal anti clock wise unwinding... DON'T SCREW UP!!! If u break the nut, don't call me!! :D




Some closeup to show u the screw... if you don't have the hex wrench, it will be difficult because of the thin top. Too thin to fit a wrench (its size 17mm). The black finishing is actually the oil sump paint (in&out), painted over the nut because when they paint the oil sump before assembly, the bolt is already in place..again I must stress, it should be very tight for a new car.. I think :rolleyes:


Check out the dirty oil.. what they called BMW-LL :stupid:


If I were to tell you these are 5k km original BMW-LL fluid, would you believe me.. :p :D


If these are good for another say... 5k km... would u pour it into your Kancil or something..? :p :D











Hope u enjoy reading the above! :wink: